There’s been more play with layering and weaving together of fabrics as opposed to the normal cut-and-sew for the past couple of seasons, as seen at Gucci and Herve Leger. Most prominent with the basket-weaving details for the Fall/Winter 2010 collections are present in ThreeAsFour and VPL, in which it takes on a delightfully strange and hairy twist…

It deeply brought to mind one of our favorites, Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir a.k.a. Shoplifter. The Icelandic artist and fashion designer is best known for her intricate and eerie hair sculptures (i.e. Bjork’s Medulla’s album cover).

For more info, check out:
threeASFOUR
VPL and
a.k.a. Shoplifter

Images via style.com & shoplifter.us

 

NYFW F/W 2010: 6 Favorite Looks from 6 Favorite Collections

Images via style.com & elle.com

 

I remember spotting Katie Gallagher on the streets a year ago and wondering who this fairy-like creature waif was. She turned out to be a designer, of course. RISD-bred and with apprenticeships at Anna Sui and ThreeAsFour under her belt, she has a very clear and amazing vision, one that is very ethereal and dark, and takes place in the forest where you’re surrounded by a pleasant mix of cute and creepy woodland furry animal friends.

Her show titled “The Heart of The Woods And What I Found There” took place at the Soho Grand February 15, 2010 where she presented her “mini-me’s.”

Visit Katie Gallagher online: katiegallagher.com

 

RIP.

 

WW† is back in 2010 and Jesus has been walking…

The rebirth has been imminent within the movies (Antichrist, Angels & Demons), jewelry, and most recently the Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

To be particular, Jesus walked the runways at Blaak and Givenchy. Blaak’s “Exodus” show opened up with an ominous feel with a rather large crucifix and with the adornment of crowns of thorn. The Givenchy “Jesus is Lord” tee-shirt is sure to be the new Christopher Kane’s Gorilla tee or its Topshop’s variant in Crocodile tee version. Both shows, by the way, complete their look with patent-leather Jesus sandals.

Amen.

1. Mark Fast SS2010
2. Blaak F/W 2010 Menswear
3. Harmon vest; available at Oak
4. Tom Binns necklace
5. Per Annum Manhattan Diary 2010: gold-edged weekly planner

 

1. Delfina Delettrez Hand Bracelet. $8310. Available at Opening Ceremony

2. Alexander McQueen Knuckle Duster Clutch. $1595. Available at Net-A-Porter

3. Natalia Brilli Skull Bag. Price TBC. Available at Natalia Brilli

4. Gisele Gannesolitaire Skull Ring. $360. Available at Kabiri

5. Alexander McQueen Titanium Skull Ring. $200. Available at FarFetch

 

In perfect timing with our new favorite music video that released last week- Jay-Z, Rihanna & Kanye’s “Run This Town- we bring you a Confessional with the designer of those mind blowing pyramid shades worn by Ri-Ri herself, Kerin Rose of A-Morir. Kerin dishes about her long work hours, how an intestinal disease put her on the track to bedazzle-mania, her outrageous style, and her hopes of future collaborations. Brace yourself for some wacky visuals!

Hey Kerin! Can you please tell us a little about yourself, your design background, if any, and how you got started with A-Morir?
Hi! I’m Kerin Rose, HBIC of the accessory line “A-Morir”. I am an Amazonian redheaded jewbroad who was raised on the north shore of Long Island. I moved to Manhattan in 2001 to attend NYU and have never left. I have no formal design training; but I did take piano for a decade, so my fingers are very nimble, which helps when you’re dealing with crystals that are 5-7 millimeter in diameter. I’ve been an acrylic painter since I was 5, concentrated on pop culture history in college, and have, in less than a year, turned myself into a professional bedazzler and business owner. This might just be the sloppiest interview intro ever; which is okay, because my accessories NEVER are. I got started with A-Morir, concretely, less than a year ago. By accident.

Where did your concept come from and where do you get your inspiration?
There was no concept when the line started because I didn’t think I was starting anything. I make what I make because I’m really good at the ostentatious, extravagant, and different. My first pair of eyewear happened because I bought all these crystals to bedazzle a new iphone and I didn’t get one… and then I broke my sunglasses… got a new pair, put two and two together, and then people kind of lost their minds. I’m not saying that to be arrogant, I’m saying that in a matter-of-fact-attacked-by-pedestrians-on-the-street-every-day kind of a way. So I figured I’d give it a shot and made a small collection of 4 styles of eyewear, and a handful of headpieces and necklaces. Now that I have something, the concept has just become “Oh shit. People really liked that last piece, now I have to make something else.” I get a lot of inspiration from my friends, whose suggestions I value. Or I see a piece of material and see how far I can take it out of context.

What was your first job and did it impact your career choices?
When I started NYU I simultaneously began doing college marketing at record labels. Marketing, for me, is very easy. My career choices for a long time were based on what was ‘easy’, because I was actively sick with a chronic intestinal disease (ulcerative colitis). When you’re sick every day for many years you do what you can to get by, which, for me, was marketing. Last year I finally went into remission, freaked out, and left my job with no idea what I was going to do with my life. I gave myself a year to celebrate my health and figure my shit out. And, well, here I am.

Your pieces are all made by hand, and your rhinestone and “bedazzled” pieces are incredibly detailed. How long does it take to make a pair of sunnies?
It depends on the piece and the humidity level. Adhesives drying times vary depending on the environmental barometric pressure, so this summer has been painful for my production. I don’t like to talk about how long my pieces take, but I’m hand applying 400-600 crystals that are 7 millimeter in diameter to eyewear frames. And that shit looks made-in-china-factory perfect.

Do you have a favorite piece?
I love all my babies equally. Wait, no, I think my converse hi-tops might be my favorite, because they’re physically mesmerizing. Even if you hate glitter you can’t turn away. Come to think of it, we could probably solve the Middle East crisis by using them as a hypnotic device.

You’ve gotten a lot of celebrity shine recently- the new Jay-Z, Rihanna & Kanye video for “Run This Town” shows Rihanna rocking a pair of your shades covered in black rubber pyramids. Cassie twitpic’d a flick of herself in your “Love/Hate” sunnies, etc. What’s it like to have a celebs’ seal of approval on your ideas/designs?
The celebrity shine is incredibly flattering, mainly because they have access to everything. People give them really nice shit all the time. And my pieces get purchased. I mean, Rihanna could probably get anyone to do anything for her, but she’s wearing my custom shades in the new “Run This Town” video. Ultimately, it’s like getting picked first for kickball. Who doesn’t want to get picked first for kickball?

As for my shamelessly self-promoting celeb roster? Katy Perry performed in my glasses on American Idol and at performances in NYC and London, Jazmine Sullivan has rocked the shit out of my Love/Hate and Rockstar shades in “Champion” with Ace Hood & Rick Ross, Dawn from Danity Kane, Mariah Carey, Erin Lucas from MTV’s The City, up and coming R&B talents Livvi Franc & Shontelle Layne … and I’ve been working with Princess Superstar for a while now; the custom “futuristic nature” headphones I’ve made for her will break hearts. I think that’s it for now.

Who would you love to see rockin’ A-Morir?
Dita Von Teese; not for the obvious reasons, but because she bedazzles her own merkins. She gets it. I’d love to see Joan Jett in a pair of Black Hearts (she has a record label of the same name). I’d like to think A-Morir has no boundaries. I want my shit on Richard Simmons AND Wayne. I want to see A-Morir on the biggest divas and the grimiest thugs… but I can’t give away my whole wishlist…

Oh shit… Can we get my pieces on Miss Piggy?

Every time I bump into you, your outfit is always a showstopper, definitely one that stands out in a crowd. How would you describe your style?
Haha, why thank you! I don’t know HOW to describe my style. I’ve been described as “peg bundy and ziggy stardust had a baby” and I’d say that’s pretty accurate. I like to give a bit of everything. I can give you rockabilly Monday, gorgeous ladies of wrestling Tuesday, cholita Wednesday, 77 punk Thursday, Miami coke wife Friday, drag queen Saturday, and bollywood goth Sunday. But I haven’t worn jeans in over a year. So I guess the only constant in my wardrobe is lycra spandex. And, you know, glitter. The one thing I WILL say is that I don’t spend more than 20 minutes on “getting ready”.

What was your style like in high school? Have you always been about embellishment?
Ooh, girl. I wasn’t always so sparkly, but I’ve always given a bit of a show. It’s always been fun for me to playfully challenge societal norms with what I wear and what’s acceptable. I’d go to school in a crinoline skirt with 4’’ pumps and a sleek black shirt. I wore blue lipstick with jeans and a tailored white shirt. I owned 2 winter jackets, in neon yellow and neon pink. I went to prom in a fuscia silk shantung tuxedo with neon orange satin lining and had my date on a leash. I got a lot of shit for my appearance until I graduated, but was also told by a friend’s very classy mother that I had the most refined style of anyone she knew. A lot of interesting color palates, prints, garment reappropation. It was all very natural though; whenever I had to buy new clothes I just gravitated towards the more obscure. In fact, when I was 18 and was interning at a brokerage firm, I went to banana republic with my mom and had a panic attack because I didn’t know what to do with starched shirts. (I’ve since gotten better…)

What’s a typical day like for you?
Each day is different; the only constant is that I start and end my day at my worktable. I’m at it at 9am every day and usually leave it sometime around 3 AM. My days usually involve trips to the garment district to buy supplies, reluctant trips to the post office, incessant calls to my mom about stupid shit, list making, espresso purchases, and learning how to play my favorite R&B jams on the acoustic guitar. And of course, lots and lots of one sided conversations with my crystals. I nurture my embellishments like they’re houseplants. There’s usually a “go to the gym” in there, but I’ve been on a fluke of a hiatus.

What’s your motto?
I’ve got a few in my basket – they apply for both life and work:
“Simply the thing that I am shall make me live.” (Shakespeare)
“Specialization is for insects.” (Heinlin [abridged])
“I expect to pass through this life but once. If therefore there be any kindness I can show, or any goodness I can do to any fellow being let me do it now and not defer or neglect it as I will not pass this way again.” (Penn)
Most importantly: GO BIG OR GO HOME.

What’s your most beloved possession/ greatest extravagance?
Beloved possessions? Oh man. Can I give you a short list?
My most beloved possessions include: mom’s original Beatles records, my grandmother’s costume jewelry, my 2nd edition of “The Picture of Dorian Gray”, my limited edition signed OBEY print of Joey Ramone, the Hebrew Blondie concert poster my sister ripped off a wall in Tel Aviv for me, my collection of chamsas, the signed poster of Coco that Ice-T gave me, my dad’s uzi clip, my “kerin.rose” nameplate in Hebrew, my Tiffany “K” padlock necklace.

As for greatest extravagance, I’d say the Alexander Mcqueen blue diamond printed leggings I bought this week at his sample sale. They retail for $900 and cost me $199, which is the most I’ve ever spent on a single thing I can wear. And it was on lycra/spandex clothing at that. They’re incredibly beautiful, and I’ll wear them forever, but that’s fucking ridiculous.

What can we look forward to with A-Morir?
MORE AWESOME SHIT! I’m beginning to experiment with completely covering lenses with fabrics and trims you can still see through, shoulder pieces, geometric head pieces, spikes, fringe, custom headphones, pearls, secrets, secrets, and secrets. Oh, and I want to be asked to do collaborations. This is me being the girl asking the boy to ask her to go to prom. I want to be your prom date. Get at me; you know you wanna.

Shop at: www.a-morir.com

-Christine Mayrina

 

British label Neurotica, has produced an exclusive capsule collection for Topshop which will launch across the UK on August 21st and in the US on September 6th.

Neurotica, founded in 2007, was spotted by Topshop’s buying team in 2008 who began stocking it in the concession basement at the Oxford Circus flagship. The brand’s exclusively designed 5-piece collection for Topshop features Neurotica’s distinct signature aesthetic of hand-drawn illustration and soft jersey textures, and joins it with sexy and playful styling, cleverly translated via dainty embellishments.

Pieces include a sparkling silver lightning print on a bodysuit and a fine jersey oversized tee, a delicate bamboo repeat print on a contrast panelled vest dress, and a soft oversized sweater with a heart shaped applique. Each carefully selected print is originally hand illustrated and exclusive to the collection, and realised in shades of bright tangerine and lilac.

Visit Topshop online: www.topshop.com.
View Neurotica’s collections here: www.thisisneurotica.co.uk.

 


Hailing from the southernmost part of Turkey, Asli Filinta offers a unique perspective to the tried and true- her eponymous line blends her cultural heritage with her NYC atmosphere. Taking inspiration from love stories from the Ottoman Empire, paintings from the ceiling of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, and traditional Turkish fabrics and textiles, as well as pure artistic whimsy, Filinta’s line is rich, to say the least.

The line materialized when Filinta moved to Williamsburg, Brooklyn in 2007 and began to sell her creations, then just hats and tanks, at stores like Dernier Cri and Pixie Market. Eventually the line evolved into a full range of pieces, including leggings, blazers, and structured dresses- all embellished with design elements that are evocative of her Turkish roots. Asli was then able to launch into international stature- her innovative collections have gotten much admiration, landing her an invitation from Vogue Nippon to collaborate with Comme Des Garcons and Rei Kawakubo. Currently, Filinta is busy with shows in Paris, New York, and Tokyo.

For more information, check out Asli Filinta’s site here.

 

Deeply rooted in the street culture of New York and the ideologies of the punk movement, Eddie Borgo is a new jewelry line that brings a fresh perspective and new energy to these established themes. His particular interest lies somewhere between the bold shapes and geometric forms of modern architecture and sculpture, and the raw emotive energy of post punk beauty Siouxsie Sioux and the Rolling Stones. His own work pursues a clean aesthetic and clarity of form, employing unexpected and suggestive materials. Crystal spikes are threaded on stain ribbon, brushed gold studs affixed to bands of black leather.

The result is a potent mix of high end and street, boldly embodying the essential contradictions that make New York such an exciting city to experience and explore.

Eddie Borgo has created work for Altuzarra, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Marchesa, Jen Kao, and Camilla Staerk.

His jewelry is currently available for purchase at Barney’s New York, Colette in Paris, Liberty of London and Joyce in Hong Kong.

For more info, visit his website.

 
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