NYC - Polish-born  K A R O L I N A   Z M A R L A K takes the view that fashion is not a firm absolute, but a fluid, plastic indeterminate realm which can be altered, either partially or wholly, by the consciousness of the perceiver. Her fashion is a fascinating play on subjective speculation while her design approach is unequivocally that of a masterful technician.

Employing haute couture concepts of the fold, precise draping and disciplined calculation, Karolina’s technique reflects something she calls “recombinant design.” With a background in pattern-construction and an obsession with all things Cristobal Balenciaga, she has been an apt student of the Master’s austere tailoring and divine proportionality. Her intriguing garments exhibit non-linear patterns and skewed-geometrics made precisely for dynamic and interpretative wearability. The result: a cerebral, architectural style that is at once romantic and cool - with intense transitional qualities.

Her most recent collection (Fall ‘09) is entitled ‘Fluid Foundations’ and is all about extreme metamorphosis. The range includes a reversible Oviedo Jacket fashioned from organic and synthetic blends that can be worn as a simple wrap-trench or can be transformed into a drapey, cocoon-like frock with asymmetric dimensions. With conceptual and intellectual rigor, her numerous pieces challenge conventional notions of silhouette, as such, and express alternative deciphering of the body.

Another enthralling piece is the Lugo Trouser that is inspired by active wear and incorporates the latest in material engineering. The casual yet glam pants (above) are made from sleek and stretchy micro-fiber and lined with power net seams to retain shape and structure. These looks are sculptural, feminine and versatile and can be layered beneath or brandished as outerwear - and are perfect for impromptu mixing and matching. The color palettes and finishes are wide ranging and Karolina brilliantly combines neutrals and darks with exuberant polychromy.

Karolina’s clothes allow for variegated combinations and alterations. The designer argues that the collection’s underpinnings are fundamentally about “polymorphism, plurality and free-style eclecticism.” There are trappings of post-modernity here in which the body, categories, and time/space are broken into ‘subjective’ pieces and recombined elements. This is her intention - to express a conception of the female body as unfinished and de-centered in time and space, and signifies the ambiguity of subjects by resisting distinct categories of identity. Karolina’s clothes refuse a ‘motif of permanence’ and are indeed fluid, beautiful and highly intellectual.

The body enveloped in Karolina’s recombinant pieces expresses neither individualism nor collective identity, but something in between. Her work is a type of non-conformist polemic against orthodox ready-to-wear. In contradistinction to mainstream design, her aesthetic reflects a subjectivity that grasps itself as a unique and singular combination of chance events, rather than a proscribed and predictable ‘fixed style.’ Without being trite, Karolina Zmarlak’s pieces are timeless, heterodox and open-ended (the clothes are made to fit one size, by the way!). Her craftsmanship is flawless and each piece is meticulously constructed with gorgeous finishes giving rise to a kind of ‘perpetual novelty.’

Karolina, who was educated at FIT and apprenticed under Carolina Herrera, lives full-time in NYC and works out of her Chelsea atelier. She recently showed her collection in NYC‘s Chelsea Gallery District.

Her Fall ‘09 RTW collections are available in NYC at Debut, Takashimayaand Eva. Price range: $200-$2000

For enquiries, contact Ms. Zmarlak at: info@karolinazmarlak.com

www.karolinazmarlak.com

-Cody Ross (cody@priestessnyc.com)

Subject: Sucre Sample Sale! June 26th- 30th
Sucre announces it's amazing semi-annual sale with tonz of amazing
samples and overstock items at 30% to 80% off.

Designers include: Current Elliot, Sea, Thayer, Ingwa Melero, Olga Kapustina, Cheap
Mondays, Scosha, Axis Cherry, Sheila Elaine, Pluma and MUCH MORE!

Date:  Friday, June 26 to Monday, June 30th

Location:  Sucre 357 Bleecker Street, Between Charles and West 10th Street
Store Hours:  Mon-Wed 11-7, Thurs-Sat 11-8, Sun 12-7

-Cody Ross (cody@priestessnyc.com)

NYC — A colorful, slightly intimidating leopard tattoo spans the length of her leg while both her arms brandish vividly colored roses and skulls amidst frenzied beasts of prey; she’s addicted to her blog, www.sucrenyc.blogspot.com, where she posts fresh updates about the stupendously cool fashion store that she and Selima Salaun founded nearly 2 years ago. She’s got a jet-black Chihuahua called Ruby, who listens to The Gossip (Beth Ditto) and certain other vintage punk bands. She’s an indisputable style maven and a fixture in NYC’s fashion firmament.

Fans of C A  N  D A C E   M O H R (above) will instantly recognize her as the coolest proprietress around. She runs the eccentric, uber-cool  S U C R E boutique (French for sugar, if it wasn‘t already obvious) which is arguably the most sartorially-savvy entity in the hood - the West Village hood, that is.

SUCRE sits between extra-charming West 10th and Charles Streets along Bleeker and is noticeable by its blood-red cursive logo and fab jewelry-centric window displays (not to mention the dainty bovine cow skull reposing on the floor). Naturally, Miss Mohr (who once headed-up the merchandise team at Girl Shop and was a buyer at Patricia Fields) holds ‘meet-and-greet’ events with designers at least weekly to vet the coolest talents and gear; her cheeky, zany personality and her hands-on approach generate tons of cool traffic and fun visibility - and Candace is always dashingly self-styled, extremely peppy and a delight to talk to!

Along with her partner, Selima Salaun (of Selima Optique - above left w/Catherine Malandrino), Candace brings a fresh vision to the monotony of Bleeker Street retail. At SUCRE, she oversees the buying, merchandising and marketing - and does so with amazing intuition and verve! Her policy is simple: always be new, fresh and surprising - and eons ahead of the rest. Candace is also fanatical about quality and novelty and her mission is to ‘seek-out the most unique creations and showcase the ‘Best Of’ NYC’s underground design community.’ Trunk shows are frequent and merry events at SUCRE and Candace ensures a sumptuous fete replete with yummy wines and splendid fashion offerings.

SUCRE thrives on the unexpected, the quirky, the funky or just plain freaky. The versatile range of merchandise has zesty appeal and is juxtaposed against the classical, Federalist-style architecture of the building (and neighborhood) that houses it. It embodies (much like Candace herself) a ‘chic-edginess’ but with a high degree of class and tons of off-beat spunk.

The store’s interior is polished and charming with antique wooden cabinets and chocolate-stained oak floors. Intricate illustrations of birds are framed in gold and rest against the cream-colored walls; full- and half-bodied mannequins are strewn throughout the space showcasing the newest looks - from apparel and jewelry to feathered head-pieces and divine necklaces.

Stocking only high-end and superbly constructed items with amazing price-points—including Selima’s to-die-for eye candy (frames, spectacles, shades, etc.), Greta Cavazzoni’s texturized python-skin clutches and bags; the coolest sequined tanks and skirts from Anna Wintour’s former assistant, Aimee Cho (who designs Gryphon), as well as amazing reconstructed vintage necklaces by Lulu Frost, to name a few, SUCRE is the quintessential showcase for artistic and precious era-inspired pieces

The three words that sum up the street-level, 350 sq. ft space are: eclectic, selective and cutting-edge. The range is precise, passionate and distinctive  - and you can tell that Candace’s merchandise has been selected with a rush of blood to the heart. The result: adrenaline-induced shopping that is sure to net you supremely novel and worship-worthy pieces!

A unique and entertaining mix of influences and inspiration (often from the forties- and fifties-eras) imbue the SUCRE concept. Candace likes to focus on NYC’s local talent but isn’t scared to stock more cosmo names. From Italian model-cum-accessory designer  Greta Cavazzoni to the vintage pluralism of Suzie Gallehugh’s jewelry to the LES’s Foley+Corinna, SUCRE maintains a constantly hedged fashion portfolio. Artisan mixes with streetwear/punk and antiques, and girls of all tastes and nationalities rub shoulders when perusing SUCRE‘s racks. Belts, hats, dresses and decor are teamed with music; beauty compliments design objects and Candace (and Jessica) are always on hand to dispense invaluable style advice!

The latest phenomena range from environmentally friendly soft cotton-print jerseys by Margarita Saplala to spent bullet casings refashioned as necklaces with exquisite crystals. You’ll fall in love with jewelry by Pamela Love and Suzanna Dai as well as Thea Grant‘s newest collection: reconstructed vintage necklaces and variegated era-broaches. Candace is always on patrol for the next cool thing, and she runs circles around the competition along Bleeker‘s rather homogenous lump.

“I never have time to come up for air - it’s always about advancing, moving ahead and getting the coolest, most unique stuff,” says Candace. And she‘s brilliant at it! Thanks to the designers and Candace’s careful selectivity, the SUCRE world is one of constant unexpectedness and surprise. Whether you’re after the ‘best of basics’ or complex and nuanced apparel, jewelry or eye-wear, SUCRE provides best quality and fit and timeless, classic appeal!

Ruby likes Beth Ditto

Visit SUCRE at 357 Bleecker St., New York, NY 10014
near Charles Street
212-352-1640  site: www.sucrenyc.blogspot.com

-Cody Ross (cody@priestessnyc.com)  Photos by: Amanda de Simone